Roman Blinds
Tools and Equipment
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Making the Blind
1) Cut out the fabrics
It is essential to the finished product that the fabrics are cut perfectly straight.
Main fabric = measurement of the finished blind +60mm to the width and 400mm to the length.
Lining fabric = measurement of the finished blind + 400mm to the length.
(This 400mm allowance allows for a 190mm turning at the bottom of the blind, 100mm at the top to allow for fixing to the batten, and 20mm at each pleat casing) Shorter blinds may not need as much allowance.
2) Join fabric and lining
Lay lining on top of fabric with right sides facing. Make a pleat in the main fabric so that the side edges of fabric and lining match. Pin, then stitch the side seams taking 15mm for seams. Trim slightly then press seams open.
It is essential to the finished product that the fabrics are cut perfectly straight.
Main fabric = measurement of the finished blind +60mm to the width and 400mm to the length.
Lining fabric = measurement of the finished blind + 400mm to the length.
(This 400mm allowance allows for a 190mm turning at the bottom of the blind, 100mm at the top to allow for fixing to the batten, and 20mm at each pleat casing) Shorter blinds may not need as much allowance.
2) Join fabric and lining
Lay lining on top of fabric with right sides facing. Make a pleat in the main fabric so that the side edges of fabric and lining match. Pin, then stitch the side seams taking 15mm for seams. Trim slightly then press seams open.
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3) Press the Blind
Turn right sides out and position so lining is centred on the main fabric. Press to get crisp edges to the blind. 4) Stitch casing at lower edge Zigzag or overlock both top and bottom edges. Turn up 10mm across lower edge of blind, press then turn up 40mm for casing. Press and stitch across blind. 5) Stitching casings up the blind These casings determine the folds of the blind when it is pulled up. Divide the finished length of blind by 300mm (e.g. 1.500 ÷ .300 = 5) to get approximate amount of casings and distance between casings. A 20mm seam allowance for each casing needs to be allowed for at this stage, so need to adjust the distance between casings. Measure carefully and mark the position of each casing with lines. Fold blind across at each line of markings and pin. Allowing a 10mm seam, sew across each casing. Lie blind flat and measure from the bottom of blind the finished length, mark this and stitch across. |
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6) Stitch the rings in place
The blind is pulled up by cords running through small plastic or brass curtain rings stitched to the back of the blind casings. Rings should be spaced about 600mm apart, across the row. Work out how many rings will fit across the blind, positioning one 15mm in from each side, with the rest spaced evenly in between, for a small blind you will need to place one in the middle. Stitch rings in place by hand to the top of each casing.
7) Lower batten
Cut batten to required length and cover ends of batten with small piece of fabric. Place in lower casing.
8) Fibreglass rods
The use of fibreglass rods is optional, for a small blind they are not really necessary, but if the blind is a large one (width wise) rods placed in each of the casings will give stability.
Cut to required length, slide into the casing pocket and stitch ends closed.
The blind is pulled up by cords running through small plastic or brass curtain rings stitched to the back of the blind casings. Rings should be spaced about 600mm apart, across the row. Work out how many rings will fit across the blind, positioning one 15mm in from each side, with the rest spaced evenly in between, for a small blind you will need to place one in the middle. Stitch rings in place by hand to the top of each casing.
7) Lower batten
Cut batten to required length and cover ends of batten with small piece of fabric. Place in lower casing.
8) Fibreglass rods
The use of fibreglass rods is optional, for a small blind they are not really necessary, but if the blind is a large one (width wise) rods placed in each of the casings will give stability.
Cut to required length, slide into the casing pocket and stitch ends closed.
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9) Cord Decide which side of the blind you want the pull cord to hang. Lay blind flat with lining facing you. Don’t forget everything is now back to front, so you position the cord to hang at the opposite side to your finished requirement. |
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10) Prepare the top batten
The size of the batten is optional. We use 20mm x 40mm. Staple or tack the fabric to the batten so that the top of the blind stitching line lies straight across the top edge of batten. (This will be slightly different for top fixed than for face fixed blinds). Make sure the blind is STRAIGHT.
11) Fit screw eyes
Fit a screw eye into the batten at the top of each line of rings. Thread cords through the screw eyes, running them all to the one side of the blind. The cords can be tied off into a cord joiner, with one larger cord going to the acorn or the cords can be plaited and tied off at the acorn.
11) Hang the blind
Either screw the batten directly into the top of the window recess, or fit ‘J’ brackets above the window. Fit the cleat to the side of the window frame to anchor the cord when the blind is up.
The size of the batten is optional. We use 20mm x 40mm. Staple or tack the fabric to the batten so that the top of the blind stitching line lies straight across the top edge of batten. (This will be slightly different for top fixed than for face fixed blinds). Make sure the blind is STRAIGHT.
11) Fit screw eyes
Fit a screw eye into the batten at the top of each line of rings. Thread cords through the screw eyes, running them all to the one side of the blind. The cords can be tied off into a cord joiner, with one larger cord going to the acorn or the cords can be plaited and tied off at the acorn.
11) Hang the blind
Either screw the batten directly into the top of the window recess, or fit ‘J’ brackets above the window. Fit the cleat to the side of the window frame to anchor the cord when the blind is up.
